PTT is wired up inside the stick to a pushbuton on the top. The PTT cable and plug comes out through a hole just to the right of the radio.

I ran my PTT cable up the inside of the stick- my aim is a 'sterile cockpit' with as little clutter as possible. There isn't much room in that cockpit!

Note that POH posted by mtimney is for the Polini powered version. Attached is a copy for the Firth F23 version- just a few differences in weight, temps, etc.

Hah- I have solved the problem! After writing the post above, I decided I need to take a good look at the choke/enricher system, as it was likely the issue was inadequate priming. I slid the rubber boots clear of where the cables terminate in the carbs, and found that even with the choke lever at full ON, one cable was still loose (ie not opening the enricher port at all) and the other was just barely opening. I wound out the adjusters till the cables were just loose at choke lever OFF, and enricher ports fully open at choke lever ON- the adjusters ended up very close to maximum extension. The system was untouched since delivery, so I suspect what happened was initially a cable outer may have not been fully home in the metal end sleeve when the carbs were set up, and with use it has bedded in and thus relaxed the whole enricher system. Happy days for me and the starter motor!

Carburetor, 50:1 Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T aka Castrol TTS. Had good experience with this in in my Rotax 582, and I like the smell of the exhaust!

Just a reminder to check belt tension each preflight. After about 20 hours I noticed the tension had slackened a bit, and on takeoff as I went to full throttle the engine would 'flare' for maybe a second then settle to normal rpm. Tension the belt again and all good.

Re the 'fix' solving the problem- I don't know. I am guessing the arcing is not occuring during engine running, but as the switch is turned off and the contact gaps close to ground the mag kill wires, there is a period where the gap is small enough to get an arc and weld the contacts when they completely close.

It's the little toggle switch on the left side of the seat in the panel with the starter and mag test buttons.

Further to this- I have now adopted the practice of shutting down the F23 by using the ignition test buttons as part of a shutdown mag drop check. This is based on the assumption (?) that the test pushbuttons are more robust and have a higher voltage rating than the toggle switch, so better resistant to arcing. Also detects any issue with the ignition system at end of flight rather than the next preflight when you are all geared up to fly. -Test1 mag drop -Test2 mag drop -Test1 and Test 2 engine shutdown -Ignition switch OFF

After another 10 hours flying I checked the plugs again. They were on the light side of tan- not too bad but I like to see them browner than they were. So I have set the needle clip on the second slot down- midway between Hirth (top slot) and FC (thrid slot). I will check the plugs again after a 1-2 hour flight.

Just to clarify in case you thought I was missing something obvious like the fuel level sightglass strip up the side of the tank- My Nano has a larger 30 litre tank and does not have the sightglass strip. So my only means of sighting fuel level is through the seatback inspection holes.

Further update- Fusioncopter sent me an stl file of a camera mount they use. I 3D printed it and tried it out- works well. It allows a relatively unobstructed view of the flight controls, EFIS and suroundings. Perfecto! Thansk Fusioncopter! I need to firm up the mount- it was only softly clamped in this test- and permanently wire the camera 5V supply inside the side canopy hoop to keep an uncluttered cockpit. A sample video is here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A60hxbm8QG0

A video of 3 landings at the local field. https://www.facebook.com/1034764558/videos/918836509095280/ The nano is super easy to land gently- it just floats along at 20-30 kph in ground effect.

I have posted another video- a bit shorter and tighter editing this time! Aim was to better understand my take-off technique and also try a head-mounted camera. The video is here> https://www.dropbox.com/s/26mqze9e08339go/22.10.2022%20HOME-NZTE%20head%20mount.mp4?dl=0 The head mounted camera is not a good idea- • The canopy hoops obscure the view-almost as bad as my head with the bulkhead mounted camera. • With your head on a swivel checking traffic, instruments, and generally enjoying the view- the video is too 'busy'. • Next flight I will try a chest mounted camera position. Re take-off technique- • Above 3000 engine rpm my brakes start slipping, so I normally just go with the flow as in the first take-off in the video. • The second take-off I held some back stick above about 200 rotor rpm so the rotor was helping the brakes hold. It felt more in control.

My Nano has arrived in country (NZ), just waiting for release from customs and get it trucked to my field. Great birthday present on its way!

If you always have the trailer there while fitting/removing the rotors, a simple rope/pulley system off the top of the trailer door would do the trick? It also looks like you are using split pins on the rotor nuts. Would safety pins be simpler/reusable alternatives?

Hi Jeffrey- How is your flying going? I have been hanging out waiting for your next youtube video to satisfy my aviationitis till my machine arrives (on ship now, expected late June). Replacement bolts already? Or are these hot spares for further down the track? Stuart.